Northern Ireland | Belfast | agmtraveller.com

A Christmas City Break to the Northern Irish Capital Belfast

Where: Belfast, Northern Ireland. Europe.
When: December 2003
What: Shankill Road, Revolutionary Murals, Belfast City Hall. Albert Memorial Clock.
Country counter: No. 37
How: Domestic flight, taxi, walking, city sightseeing bus.

This was my inaugural visit to Northern Ireland, a somewhat juvenile attempt to see Belfast, the 'infamous' city about which I had heard so much growing up, armed with two crazy friends, a nasty winter virus and a very cheap 35mm camera - and almost no itinerary whatsoever.

Ultimately this was nothing more than a lads' weekend away facilitated by cheap flights from Leeds to Belfast courtesy of the Yorkshire-based airline Jet2 and an even cheaper hotel booking. Seeing Belfast at Christmastime sounded pleasant enough when I received the invite. The proposition conjured up evocative images of wonderful winter markets, bustling bars proffering mulled wine and the kind of grandeur only a city can possess. In reality Belfast was bitingly cold, I was sick and the bars offered freezing cold beverages when I was already frozen. A sightseeing tour on a bus meant that, despite everything., I did get to see something of this great city. 

Ultimately such an experience would necessitate my return to Northern Ireland some nine years later. In 2012 I would return with a plan, a travelling partner and a hire car to do this enigmatic slice of Ireland/United Kingdom (delete as you deem politically appropriate) the justice it deserved. My second trip across the Irish Sea made sure I saw the iconic London/Derry Murals and the murals of west Belfast, the Giant’s Causeway, the wonderful Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, the C.S. Lewis statue, the Northern Ireland Assembly at Stormont, the infamous Shankill Road, Belfast Peace Line, newly-opened Titanic Museum, iconic H&W shipyard cranes and, like meeting up with an old acquaintance, the Belfast City Hall.

travel tips, links & resources

• The best way to see Northern Ireland is by car, especially if you are looking to travel outside of the main urban hubs of London/Derry and Belfast. If visiting Belfast, it is advisable to open it out from being merely a city break, to taking in some of the other things on offer.
• If hiring a car don't leave re-filling until the morning of your flight - a curiosity of Belfast and its environs is that trying to find a petrol station that was open at 5am was impossible. We had to hand over the car with a half-full tank and had our credit card duly punished.
• Note that the Northern Irish Pound is Pounds Sterling but is not actually legal tender in other nations of the United Kingdom such as England or Scotland. Many retailers will still accept them but they are under no obligation to do so, according to the Bank of England. You may wish to make sure you've spent all NI notes before heading back to other nations of the United Kingdom.
• Carrick-a-Rede is a tourist hot spot and so it is advisable to set off early to avoid the very worst of the crowds - especially if you want a photograph taken of you on the rope bridge itself without half of humanity stood directly behind you.
• Northern Ireland is one of the friendliest places I have visited. Don't let the old news stories of the IRA, bombings and sectarian violence colour your judgement. The biggest threat you will face in Northern Ireland is not being able to understand the locals when they speak to you. Be prepared for some intensely strong Northern Irish accents accompanied by warm smiles.
• When in London/Derry be mindful of how you refer to the city; know that this place name is one of the most politically sensitive in Northern Ireland.
• As with many popular attractions it is best to visit The Giant's Causeway in the morning if you wish to avoid the crowds.
• The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge is sometimes closed because of bad weather or required maintenance. Check the status of the attraction on the National Trust website before setting off.

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