northern ireland

A Christmas City Break to the Northern Irish Capital Belfast

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Where: Belfast, Northern Ireland. Europe.
When: December 2003
What: Shankill Road, Revolutionary Murals, Belfast City Hall.
Country counter: No. 37
How: Domestic flight, taxi, walking.

This was my inaugural visit to Northern Ireland, a somewhat botched attempt to see Belfast armed with two drunken friends, a bad cold and a very cheap 35mm camera. We never made it outside of the city and only managed a quick tour on a city sight-seeing bus before heading back to Yorkshire. Belfast isn't just a city - it feels like a capital with its imposing buildings, architectural grandeur and wide boulevards. Our time in the Northern Irish capital was short so we made best use of the hire car, seeking out the Belfast Peace Line in West Belfast as well as a walk down the famous Shankill Road. Murals looked down upon us from all around. Their garish colours and often artistic (but sometimes cruder) depictions of historical events blended politically-explosive language with a whole host of acronyms I didn't understand. Indeed, a tour of the murals of Ulster - wherever they may be situated - is simultaneously a journey through the seemingly irreconcilable complexities of Northern Ireland itself, offering a glimpse into the combustible fusing of religious and political forces which continue to shape the direction of the nation.

 

belfast city hall

Belfast City Hall complete with Christmas decorations.

Revolutionary murals along the Shankill Road.

 

 

 

travel tips, links & resources

  • The best way to see Northern Ireland is by car, especially if you are looking to travel outside of the main urban hubs of London/Derry and Belfast. If visiting Belfast, it is advisable to open it out from being merely a city break, to taking in some of the other things on offer.
  • If hiring a car don't leave re-filling until the morning of your flight - a curiosity of Belfast and its environs is that trying to find a petrol station that was open at 5am was impossible. We had to hand over the car with a half-full tank and had our credit card duly punished.
  • Note that the Northern Irish Pound is Pounds Sterling but is not actually legal tender in other nations of the United Kingdom such as England or Scotland. Many retailers will still accept them but they are under no obligation to do so, according to the Bank of England. You may wish to make sure you've spent all NI notes before heading back to other nations of the United Kingdom.
  • Carrick-a-Rede is a tourist hot spot and so it is advisable to set off early to avoid the very worst of the crowds - especially if you want a photograph taken of you on the rope bridge itself without half of humanity stood directly behind you.
  • Northern Ireland is one of the friendliest places I have visited. Don't let the old news stories of the IRA, bombings and sectarian violence colour your judgement. The biggest threat you will face in Northern Ireland is not being able to understand the locals when they speak to you. Be prepared for some intensely strong Northern Irish accents accompanied by warm smiles.
  • When in London/Derry be mindful of how you refer to the city; know that this place name is one of the most politically sensitive in Northern Ireland.
  • As with many popular attractions it is best to visit The Giant's Causeway in the morning if you wish to avoid the crowds.
  • The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge is sometimes closed because of bad weather or required maintenance. Check the status of the attraction on the National Trust website before setting off.

 

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